Saturday, December 27, 2014

Oh Christmas Cake!



Probably too late for this post, but what the heck. It's never too late for the good things in life. Like food.

So the infamous Christmas cake. Or the "Rich" cake as we know it. The deceptively simple yet notoriously difficult to get just right. A recipe that requires patience and almost ritual-like dedication. It's best to start making the cake about 2 months ahead of Christmas as it is a famously known fact that the older the cake gets, the better it tastes. There are a number of recipes that you can find online that may or may not work (most are inconsistent with a number of components missing) but knowing my inability to stick to a recipe to save my life, this particular combination has been tried, tested and perfected over a number of years. For me, this works so I stick to it every time. 

Ingredients 

(Part 1)
250g Sultanas
250g Raisins
250g Blackcurrents
250g Cashews (or almond or both)
300g Cherries
200g Pumpkin preserve (or puhul dosi as we Sri Lankans know it)
150gs Chow chow
250g Dates 
150g Candied peel
150g Ginger preserve
250ml Honey
250g Strawberry jam (optional)
500ml Brandy/Arrack
2 teaspoons almond essence
2 teaspoons Rose essence
4 heaped tablespoons powdered mixed spice(cinnamon, cardamom, clove, nutmeg)


(Part 2)
500g Sugar (I opt for brown sugar as I like the sort of caramel flavour it gives. Plus it's healthier!)
500g Semolina (If you like a fruitier cake, opt for around 300g)
250g Butter
15 egg whites
25 Egg yolks


Method (Part 1)

  • De-seed and chop the dates into small pieces. Chop the cherries and chop the pumpkin preserve, chow chow, candied peel, cashews and ginger preserve as well. 
  • Combine all ingredients in part 1 in a large bowl or basin. Give it a good stir.
  • Put it in large jars or containers and leave aside in a cool dry place for about 1 month. Me being me, only had time to leave the fruits for about 2 weeks this time, but the cake came out just fine.   
  • Feed it about once a week with brandy or arrack and give it a good stir. 




After the steeping period for the fruits is done, you are ready to bake the cake. After baking, it is best if you can leave the cake for at least a week before eating it, so that the ingredients can settle, merge and diffuse flavour. So the advise is to bake well before Christmas.







Method (Part 2)


  • Roast semolina in a pan until it becomes slightly grainy and turns a golden brown in colour.
  • Once it is cool, mix butter and semolina in a bowl until well combined.
  • Beat the egg yolks and half the sugar in a bowl until well combined. The mixture should have a creamy, custardy texture which would ideally double in size upon beating.
  • Beat the egg whites and the sugar together until stiff peaks form.(A tedious task with a hand beater, be warned!)
  • Combine the egg yolk mixture and the semolina mixture together. Mix well. 
  • Tip the steeped fruit into a large bowl/basin that has enough space for mixing. Give it a good final stir.
  • Combine the semolina and egg yolk mixture and the fruits. Stir well until properly combined.
  • Taste the mixture. Add more spices, almond or rose essence as desired if you think that the flavour is not sufficient.
  • Fold the egg whites into this mixture. Be careful so as to not stir it too much.
  • Prepare the cake tins. It's always good to double line the cake tins with oil paper. Apply plenty of butter as the cake tends to be quite sticky.
  • Bake till a skewer or a knife inserted into the centre of the cake comes out clean.
  • Rest the cake. Every two days or so, mix together honey with some brandy or arrack and brush the cakes generously with a thick brush. 
  • Cut on Christmas day and enjoy!

This is the very Sri Lankan version of the British Christmas cake which I find to be too dry and well, not too "rich". Many use arrack and make it essentially Sri Lankan, but I prefer brandy or a fine aged cognac in mine as it gives this unique aroma to the cake that I have grown to love. 

Traditionally, all the fruits, including the sultanas, raisins and blackcurrants are chopped into tiny pieces or minced with mincing machines which makes the cake go all mushy. I like a chunkier cake and hence I do not chop the sultanas, raisins and the blackcurrants at all. I quarter the cherries and chop only the dates, the ginger preserve, candied peel. pumpkin preserve and the chow chow into fine pieces simply because biting into a large piece of those would be quite unpleasant and off-putting. The result is a moist, "rich" and chunky cake with a delightful bite!

One immediately senses the almond and the rose in the cake, both on the nose as well as on the tongue. As you bite into it, the slightly grainy texture of the semolina contrasts well with the juiciness of the sultanas and raisins that have grown plump with the steeping, bursting forth with their sweet juices against the teeth. The cherries add that distinct flavour and a stubborn bite to the cake while the spices really come through and counteract against the sweetness of the rest of the cake. The ginger preserve adds a certain piquancy that is very much welcome to the sweetness that is on the verge of being slightly overpowering. The candied peel contributes with its due amount of citrus acidity, adding yet another layer of flavour to this already complex dish, fragrant with the piercing notes of brandy, ever present like a background tune right throughout the experience. Sweet, sweet decadence.   

The cake certainly does taste better as it ages and this I can confirm to be no myth. I suppose the fermenting does not stop even after baking. However, store the cakes properly where ants or other animals cannot get to it. Humidity too spoils the cake, so make sure that the place you store the cakes is dry and clean. You can keep the cake for years if I am not mistaken. That is, if you have the kind of eating discipline to make it last that long.   

It's surprising how little sugar you need for the cake though. The ingredients in themselves are sweet enough that extra sugar is considered unnecessary. However, you can always put the almond icing on the cake as well if you prefer, but I just couldn't be bothered. Why ruin a perfectly alright cake with another layer I thought. It already tastes pretty amazing as it is. Quite a mess to cut and serve though when it is chunky. If I do get the time, I make it a point to individually wrap pieces and keep. Less messier to serve that way, much easier to distribute. Besides, what's a Christmas cake if it isn't shared! 









Sunday, December 7, 2014

Milk Wine - Essentially Sri Lankan



It's that time of the year again! Despite the occasional gloominess and rain in the evenings, mornings are unarguably golden. The air is festive. Oh, you can almost touch it, the sense of happiness permeating the air.

Which gets me to the next point; inspiration. Christmas is a time of celebration and sharing. It has always been so for my family. We are all about celebrating and December is usually the time when there are constant baking, frying and fermenting smells wafting about, getting us all excited in general.

And the Milk Wine. Essentially Sri Lankan, Milk Wine is a seasonal specialty that is slowly fading out of the scene. When the Dutch invaded Ceylon sometime back, some took treasures away from us while a few who fell in love with the island settled and adapted, adding to our culture, many vivid things. As a result, we have some very cool food amongst us such as breudher, the Sri Lankan Christmas cake, milk wine, Lamprais and the like that are specialties of the Burgher community of Sri Lanka.

Keeping to the Sri Lankan spirit, I have used Ceylon Coconut arrack in this recipe. It's super strong and with my family not being much of alcohol people, I have altered the recipe to taper down the hit of arrack.

Ingredients 


  • 1L Ceylon arrack (I've heard of people trying this with brandy but I don't think that it would be the same)
  • Rind and juice of 3 limes
  • Rind of 1 orange
  • Large stick of cinnamon
  • 12 cloves
  • 12 cardamoms 
  • 3 teaspoons coarsely ground nutmeg
  • 2 cups orange juice
  • 2 cups pineapple juice
  • 2 cups milk
  • 500g sugar
  • 1 and half cups of caramelized sugar


Method

- Grind together the lime & orange rinds, the cinnamon, cardamom, cloves and nutmeg, but don't powder. Mix it all with the arrack. Let it steep for 3-4 days. Shake the bottle well twice every day.
- Warm the milk and add the lime juice. Let it stand a while.
- Combine sugar, arrack, pineapple juice, orange juice together. Mix well till sugar dissolves.
- Once cooled, add the caramelized sugar as well. add to it the milk. Mix well.
- Strain with a thick cloth. After a while, strain twice with filter paper.
- Cork the bottles well. Open them up for Christmas!

These pictures were taken after I had only strained it once with the thick cloth, and so, sediments can still be seen as a result. After it has been strained all 3 times (a tedious, tiring task that I am not looking forward to) it will be a beautiful, semi-clear golden colour. It's still yummy though! And quite strong. The spices really come through, sweetened by the sugar and the caramelized sugar that have nicely steeped within the arrack. 

If however, you like the brew stronger, you can add more arrack. The recipe amount is 1 and half bottles of arrack but I've only used one bottle while adding double the quantity of juices. Play around with the quantities. Soften or strengthen it up as desired. It really is that easy. And remember, the longer you keep, the yummier it gets!